So the kickstand is rather cheap. Plus the bike being really tall, the kick stand does absorb our weight (those of us under 6ft) when getting on and off the bike. The kickstand issue is apparent as there are none available. So I ordered one from Amazon.com.
What I ordered was not an exact fit. The spring post is on the back of the kickstand, not the front. Which at first was a consternating discombobulation of logic. At least if you don't own a welder. But I did figure out a fix without the need for a welder. You will need drill, a bolt, 2 nuts, and 2 lock washers..... And as always a tube of Loctite (tm).
You need a bolt about 1/8th inch thick, a drill bit slightly larger, and 2 nuts and 2 lock washers to fit the
Front Shot of bolt and kickstand plate
bolt. To the right of the current front facing spring post but as close to center on the plate as possible, drill the hole. Now don't insert the bolt from the front, insert it into the back of the hole. You want to put a nut and washer on the front of the bolt and plate and one on the back, holding in place with the rest of the bolt hanging out the back as a spring post.
Backside of kickstand plate with spring attached.
The other thing I had to do was grind the tab down that the kick stand rotates on because it was rubbing and made it hard to put up and down the kickstand.
Head Bolts: First stage 12 to 14 ft/lbs - Second Stage 25 ft/lbs
Most body bolts are 10 to 15 ft/lbs - 14 Nm to 20 Nm
Other Specs:
Compression of motor should be 180 to 200 psi for top performance, 150 to 180 psi is good performance, 120 to 149 psi and it will run. Under 119 psi wont run.
Air fuel mixture screw helps you dial in the perfect "purr" for your idling beast. When tuned right the Tao Tao TBR7 Purrs like a bobcat.
This is where the adventure begins. You found the right pilot jet (your idle) but she sounds a bit tight or lulls. So you want to adjust the air fuel mixture?. You realize on the Chinese bikes and Chinese clone carburetors you can not access the dang air fuel mixture screw without removing the carb... Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
Of course I consult the all knowing oracle known as Google and come up with an extended air fuel mixture screw. Yep it does work! Because it is plastic I am a bit nervous with it. But it has been 1 month and serves me well. I live at sea level and travel up and down a few mountains. The air fuel mixture screw gets used at about 800 feet up. There are observation posts on many of our NY mountains, so I do climb a bit of altitude.
I did not use the above new spring as it was too long. I used the original spring that came with my new
Chinese Mikuni Clone carburetor. The original carburetor was sealed. The new carburetor I fitted with a 22.5 mm pilot jet and a 105 mm main jet.
You only have to take off the carburetor once for the air fuel mixture. Once installed you can reach the and turn the dial without carburetor removal. The numbers are nice to know how far you turned the knob.
I put the washer on top of the spring and then the seal on top of the washer. Insert and screw all the way in, GENTLY! Then bring out a turn and a half. From there adjust accordingly. Clockwise is less fuel and counter clockwise is more fuel added to the air fuel mixture. Really effects your idling range and throttle closed circumstances.
The first thing to understand is how does the air filter work. It is simple, it filters particles out of the air that cause excessive ware on your engine; before the air is mixed with fuel to power your motor.
The breathability of the stock air system is poor. It is why most of the time it wont idle right out of the box. I put on a new carb and jetted it. But still it would stall at an idle around 1600 rpms and that's where the idle should be set.
This air filter is a Chinese clone of the Unifilter pod style filter. It works wonderfully! Best $8.00 bucks I ever spent.
My carburetor was already running rich so I got lucky and did not have to change out the pilot jet. The pilot jet controls fuel flow while at an idle. The main jet was running to rich but installing the filter balanced out the air fuel mixture at full throttle. Now my TBR7 runs like a raped ape at full throttle. Ahh Buddy The power and the glory !!!!!
So the upgrade is fairly easy. First take off the right side cover of the bike.
Then unscrew the clamp holding the air filter tube to the carburetor.
Once disconnected from the carburetor gently peel the air filter tube off of the air box.
Then get a cover to one of those blue totes and cut a piece the same size and shape as the hole in the air box.
Use Shoe Goop to glue it on. Once dry it is there forever.
Oil up the new filter, there are many Youtube.com videos that show you how to do this. I used a light coating of motor oil for this job. Do both the sleeve and the main filter.
Attach new Air Filter. Make sure clamp is lined up with clamp groove on carburetor and is screwed down firmly.
Start your bike and see if you need to make any carburetor adjustments.
I get more power at full throttle and way better gas mileage using this Air Filter.
The Tao Tao TBR7 is one of the cheapest motorcycles you can buy brand new. With shipping I paid $1600.00 bucks for my motorcycle. They are very "customizable", and they run fairly well.
The TBR7 is made in China and that does mean a few things must be tuned, and or modified. The main thing that needs replacing or modifying is the carburetor. The stock carburetor is sealed, unless you cut slots in the unit. You can not take it apart, and the stock carburetor comes with a small main jet that bogs and sputters when you give it 3/4 to full throttle.
What this means is out of the box the bike will idle ok but when riding the bike the engine will bog or sputter when you lay into the upper end of the throttle. This is due to the main fuel jet that is used at the factory. The main fuel jet is a generic one that is not appropriate for you elevation and geographical location. Not to mention when you customize your air filter and or exhaust system it will change the needs of your main fuel jet. The diagram shows a cut away carburetor. The main jet is located at the bottom of the carburetor. Where it can suck up the most fuel.
How does the Throttle Work:
When you turn your throttle from 0 to full, there are 5 phases that you run the fuel through. Each phase adds more fuel to the fuel already added by the previous jets.
At the no throttle position fuel is passing through your "Pilot Jet". This idling. You can use the idle adjust screw for rpms and your fuel mixture screw for tuning the smoothness of the idle. The throttle valve is at work letting air in with the fuel. That's the small cut away area of your slide.
The next step is 1/4 throttle. This is where you apply a little fuel to let our the clutch or slowly roll along. Then as you roll on more throttle you start sucking gas through your needle jet and then the space made by the needle lifting up itself. as you get to three quarters throttle your carb is taking fuel from your maid jet and adding to the mix.
So as you start you take fuel from one source and keep adding more sources to it to build full RPM's. The carburetor is small but there is a lot going on, and can seem very very complicated at first. What this all means is if it the carburetor dont run well at idle then you need to pick the right pilot jet, if it dont run well from a quarter to 3 quarters you need to adjust your needle jet and Jet needle, and it it does not run well at 3/4 to full throttle you need to adjust your main fuel jet.
It is imperative you only work on one phase at a time! Otherwise you creating 5 or 6 changes and results each time never being consistent on adjustments. Below is a video done by Jay So Lo of Youtube.com. I figure why make another carburetor video when there are 3 or 4 that are already well done. Plus these guys really know there stuff!
