Electrical Data

Stator: 

Exciter coil? Around 380 ohms

Pick Up Coil: Around 150 ohms

Ignition Coil:

Spark Plug Cap: 5k ohms

Primary coil (low‑voltage side):

Most measure around 0.3–0.5 Ω.

Secondary coil (high‑voltage side, WITHOUT plug cap): 3 kΩ – 7 kΩ

New Carb Install and Adjustment

Had a no spark situation. After getting spark I have upgraded my carb to a Nibbi PE28FL. Having starting issues. So I am removing the carb to inspect and ensure the float, manifold, spacers, gaskets, etc... are all in good functioning condition. The Carburetor is new but the manifold and spacers are 4 years old. Been 2 years since I pulled it out and ran it. 

As stated there was no spark, that is now cured. It is a nice orange.  Now to deal with the carb. 

Starting issues with New Nibbi Carburetor were:

The new gasket for the spacer was defectively manufactured. It overlapped in between the spacer and the intake manifold absorbing gas and ruining the seal. Took me 2 weeks to realize this. UHGG. But this still led to a 'NO START' with spark! 

After a serious tantrum, and crying out to god as other bikes ride by, I went in my garage bench and picked up the old carburetor to throw it, low and behold I noticed that the slide closed only had about 2 or 3 mm of gap. The slide installed on my new carburetor was half an inch of space. Unhooked the throttle cable and put slide back in and it clacked all the way down. So there was fuel in the bowl, hit the starter and it fired up. My elusive problem was a cable adjustment. I re-jetted, bought new gaskets, spacers, jet kit, manifold flange... Just a cable adjustment.  

AI Information*************************

Current Situation:

• Nibbi PE28FL
• Main: 115<---------------- to small
• Pilot: 38 (currently in): Changed to #40 idles perfect!!!!!
• Air filter: NIBBI cone (flows more air than your old Uni pod)
• Stock Exhaust

*****************MORE DATA -6-626

Yes, absolutely. Start with a #120 or a #122 as your bare minimum.

With that free-flowing Nibbi cone filter, a #115 is just too small. Starting at a #120 or #122 gives you the safest, best jumping-off point to cure that high-end starvation.

That sounds like a massive, highly satisfying Saturday project! Getting that proper, longer Nibbi throttle cable installed is going to make a world of difference.

Three Quick Checkpoints for Tomorrow’s Install:

• The "Clack" Test with the New Cable: Once you hook up the new throttle assembly, snap the throttle open and release it a few times with the handlebars turned all the way to the left and all the way to the right. Make sure you still hear that distinct metal-on-metal "clack" of the slide hitting the bottom of the carb in both positions so your idle doesn't jump when you turn the bars.
• Route Away from the Exhaust: When routing the new longer cable, make sure it curves smoothly under the tank and stays clear of the exhaust header. Use zip ties loosely so the cable can shift slightly when the suspension moves.
• Fully Charge the New Battery: New powersports batteries usually sit on a shelf for a while. If you have a trickle charger, pop the new battery on it for an hour or two before dropping it into the bike to ensure it has a full, deep charge for its first start.

Good luck with the wrenching session tomorrow! Knocking out the battery, throttle, and jetting all at once is going to make that TBR7 feel like a completely different machine.

Once you get it all bolted together and take it for that first spin, let me know how it pulls through the gears or if you notice any new changes in the throttle response!

The Famous TBR7!

 

Carburetor Jets on Nibbi PE28 FL at low altitude - Gemini AI Advice

 For a Nibbi PE 28 FL carburetor on a Tao Tao TBR7 2021 at sea level, common baseline jetting includes a #115 main jet and a #38 pilot jet. [1] 

These settings serve as a reliable starting point, but final adjustments depend on your specific intake and exhaust modifications.

Recommended Jetting Baselines

Based on configurations for bikes similar to the Tao Tao TBR7 (like the Hawk 250) at low elevations:

* Stock Airbox & Exhaust: Start with a #105 or #110 Main Jet and a #35 Pilot Jet.

* Pod Filter & Stock Exhaust: Start with a #110 or #115 Main Jet and a #38 Pilot Jet.

* Pod Filter & Aftermarket Exhaust: A common configuration at sea level is a #120 or #125 Main Jet and a #40 Pilot Jet.

* Needle Position: Many users find the middle clip position or one notch down (raising the needle) works best for mid-range responsiveness. [1, 2, 3, 4] 

Fine-Tuning Tips

Because the Nibbi PE28 can be sensitive to small changes, consider these tuning steps: [4] 

* Pilot Jet First: Adjust your pilot jet until the bike idles smoothly and responds instantly to small throttle blips. If the air/fuel screw needs to be out more than 2.5–3 turns, your pilot jet is likely too small.

* Main Jet Testing: The main jet affects 3/4 to full throttle. If the bike "sputters" or "cuts out" at wide-open throttle (WOT), the jet is likely too large (rich).

* Plug Reading: After riding at a steady speed for 15–20 minutes, check your spark plug. A tan/light brown color indicates correct jetting, while white is too lean and black/sooty is too rich. [1, 5, 6, 7] 

Necessary Supplies

You will need a jet kit compatible with Keihin PE/PWK style jets. [8] 

* [TBparts Pilot Jet Kit](https://tboltusa.com/store/tbparts-keihin-pe28mm-carb-pilot-jet-kit-nibbi-p-288.html): Includes sizes #38, 40, 42, and 44 for approximately $11.99 at [TBolt USA](https://tboltusa.com/store/tbparts-keihin-pe28mm-carb-pilot-jet-kit-nibbi-p-288.html).

* Nibbi 30pc Main & 10pc Pilot Jet Kit: A comprehensive kit available on eBay for approximately $15.75. [9, 10, 11] 

Do you have any aftermarket exhaust or air intake modifications already installed on your TBR7?

[1] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/159455272172610/posts/1157717815679679/)

[2] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/159455272172610/posts/1157717815679679/)

[3] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/954686174683032/posts/2194153357402968/)

[4] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1346567582084733/posts/25835394692775348/)

[5] [https://www.youtube.com](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9YaXAeOxgM&t=133)

[6] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1346567582084733/posts/30282013861446720/)

[7] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/159455272172610/posts/1157717815679679/)

[8] [https://www.facebook.com](https://www.facebook.com/groups/661096636159855/posts/1086708033598711/)

[9] [https://blog.google](https://blog.google/products/shopping/shopping-graph-explained/)

[10] [https://blog.google](https://blog.google/products/shopping/shopping-graph-explained/)

[11] [https://tboltusa.com](https://tboltusa.com/store/tbparts-keihin-pe28mm-carb-pilot-jet-kit-nibbi-p-288.html#:~:text=TBparts%20%2D%20Keihin%20PE28mm%20Carb%20Pilot%20jet%20Kit%20NIBBI.&text=Kit%20Includes:%20*%20Pilot%20sizes%20%2338%2C%2040%2C%2042%20&%2044.)

General overview of setting up the TBR7 Carburetor

 The main jet in your 2021 Tao Tao TBR7’s 30mm Mikuni clone carburetor is a critical component that controls the fuel flow for mid-to-high throttle ranges (roughly 50–100% throttle). Since you’re running a stock exhaust, foam open air cleaner, and a #22.5 pilot jet at sea level, understanding the main jet will help you optimize performance for higher RPMs and full-throttle operation. Below, I’ll break down what the main jet does, how to select the right size, and tuning tips for your setup, keeping in mind the lower precision of your clone carburetor compared to genuine Mikuni or premium brands.

What is the Main Jet?

• Function: The main jet is a small, threaded brass component with a calibrated hole, located in the carburetor’s float bowl (accessed by removing the bowl). It meters the amount of fuel drawn into the carburetor’s main circuit, which feeds the engine during mid-to-high throttle operation.
• Role in Air-Fuel Mixture: It works with the needle jet, jet needle, and throttle valve to deliver the correct air-fuel ratio (ideally ~12.5:1 to 14.7:1 for gasoline engines) at higher throttle settings. A larger main jet hole allows more fuel (richer mixture), while a smaller hole reduces fuel (leaner mixture).
• Impact: The main jet primarily affects 3/4 to full throttle. It has little influence on idle or low throttle, which are controlled by the pilot jet and fuel mixture screw (your #22.5 and current tuning focus).

Stock Main Jet for TBR7

• Typical Size: For a stock TBR7 with a 30mm Mikuni clone carb, the stock main jet is often in the #95 to #100 range (based on forums and TBR7 owner reports). However, exact sizing can vary slightly with clone carbs due to manufacturing inconsistencies.
• Your Setup: The foam open air cleaner (less restrictive than stock) increases airflow, potentially requiring a slightly larger main jet than stock to avoid a lean condition at high throttle. The stock exhaust, however, is restrictive, which may balance this out.

Choosing the Right Main Jet

Selecting the correct main jet depends on your bike’s setup, altitude (sea level for you), and performance goals. Since your carb is a clone, its less precise porting and milling may cause it to run slightly richer or leaner than a genuine Mikuni, so testing is key.

Symptoms and Jet Sizing:

• Too Lean (Main Jet Too Small):
  • Symptoms: Surging at high throttle, hesitation at wide-open throttle (WOT), engine overheating, or a white/gray spark plug.
  • Solution: Increase main jet size (e.g., from #95 to #97.5 or #100).
• Too Rich (Main Jet Too Large):
  • Symptoms: Bogging at high throttle, black smoke from exhaust, poor acceleration, or a black/sooty spark plug.
  • Solution: Decrease main jet size (e.g., from #100 to #97.5 or #95).
• Correct Mixture:
  • Symptoms: Smooth acceleration, good power at WOT, and a tan/light brown spark plug after a high-throttle run.
  • Main Jet: Likely close to stock (#95–#100) but may need slight adjustment for the open air cleaner.

Starting Point for Your TBR7:

• Recommended Main Jet: Start with a #97.5 or #100 main jet for your setup at sea level. The foam air cleaner suggests a slightly richer jet than stock (e.g., #100 over #95) to match increased airflow.
• Clone Carb Consideration: Since your carb isn’t as precisely machined, fuel flow may be less consistent. If the stock main jet (check by removing the float bowl) is #95, try a #100 and test. If it’s already #100 and running rich, drop to #97.5 or #95.

How to Tune the Main Jet

1. Check Current Jet:
   • Remove the carburetor’s float bowl (usually 4 screws).
   • Unscrew the main jet (it’s in the center, below the needle jet holder). Note its size (stamped on the jet, e.g., “95” or “100”).
2. Test Ride:
   • Warm up the engine.
   • Ride at 3/4 to full throttle on a straight stretch. Note acceleration, power, and any surging or bogging.
   • Perform a plug chop: After a WOT run, kill the engine, remove the spark plug, and check its color (tan = good, black = rich, white = lean).
3. Adjust:
   • If lean, install a larger main jet (e.g., #102.5 or #105).
   • If rich, install a smaller main jet (e.g., #92.5 or #90).
   • Change jets in small increments (2.5–5 sizes) to avoid overcorrecting.
4. Retest: Repeat the test ride and plug chop until the bike runs smoothly and the plug is tan.
5. Fine-Tune with Needle:
   • The jet needle’s clip position affects mid-throttle (1/4 to 3/4). If high-throttle is good but mid-throttle is off, adjust the needle clip (lower clip = richer, higher clip = leaner) before changing the main jet again.

Considerations for Your Clone Carb

• Quality Issues: Clone carbs can have inconsistent machining, leading to uneven fuel delivery. If tuning feels erratic (e.g., plug color varies despite jet changes), inspect the main jet, needle jet, and float bowl for debris or wear. Cleaning the carb with carb cleaner and compressed air can help.
• Float Height: Incorrect float height can mimic main jet issues (too high = rich, too low = lean). Check the float height (typically ~17–19mm for Mikuni clones; consult your manual or TBR7 forums) and adjust if needed.
• Availability: Main jets for Mikuni clones are widely available (e.g., Amazon, eBay, or motorcycle shops). Get a jet kit with sizes ranging from #90 to #110 for flexibility.

Tips for Your TBR7

• Start with #100: Given your foam air cleaner and sea-level operation, a #100 main jet is a safe starting point. If the stock jet is #95 and performance is decent, try #97.5 or #100 to compensate for increased airflow.
• Monitor Performance: If you notice bogging or poor top-end power, the clone carb’s machining might be causing fuel delivery issues. A slightly larger main jet can sometimes mask these, but cleaning or upgrading the carb may be needed long-term.
• Keep Records: Note each jet size and test result to track what works. This is especially important with clone carbs, as they can be less predictable.
• EFI Regret: While EFI is less hassle, a well-tuned carb can still deliver great performance. If the clone carb becomes too frustrating, consider upgrading to a genuine Mikuni VM26 or similar (check compatibility) for better precision.

Next Steps

• Check Your Main Jet: If you haven’t already, remove the float bowl and confirm the current main jet size. Let me know what it is, and I can suggest a specific adjustment.
• Share Symptoms: If you’re experiencing specific issues at mid-to-high throttle (e.g., bogging, surging, or poor power), describe them, and I can refine the recommendation.
• More Carb Questions: Since you plan to ask more, feel free to dive into related topics like jet needle tuning, float adjustment, or even cleaning the clone carb to improve its performance.

Let me know the current main jet size or any high-throttle symptoms, and I’ll help you nail the tuning!