New Carb Install and Adjustment

Had a no spark situation. After getting spark I have upgraded my carb to a Nibbi PE28FL. Having starting issues. So I am removing the carb to inspect and ensure the float, manifold, spacers, gaskets, etc... are all in good functioning condition. The Carburetor is new but the manifold and spacers are 4 years old. Been 2 years since I pulled it out and ran it. 

As stated there was no spark, that is now cured. It is a nice orange.  Now to deal with the carb. 

Starting issues with New Nibbi Carburetor were:

The new gasket for the spacer was defectively manufactured. It overlapped in between the spacer and the intake manifold absorbing gas and ruining the seal. Took me 2 weeks to realize this. UHGG. But this still led to a 'NO START' with spark! 

After a serious tantrum, and crying out to god as other bikes ride by, I went in my garage bench and picked up the old carburetor to throw it, low and behold I noticed that the slide closed only had about 2 or 3 mm of gap. The slide installed on my new carburetor was half an inch of space. Unhooked the throttle cable and put slide back in and it clacked all the way down. So there was fuel in the bowl, hit the starter and it fired up. My elusive problem was a cable adjustment. I re-jetted, bought new gaskets, spacers, jet kit, manifold flange... Just a cable adjustment.  

AI Information*************************

Current Situation:

• Nibbi PE28FL
• Main: 115<---------------- to small
• Pilot: 38 (currently in): Changed to #40 idles perfect!!!!!
• Air filter: NIBBI cone (flows more air than your old Uni pod)
• Stock Exhaust

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Yes, absolutely. Start with a #120 or a #122 as your bare minimum.

With that free-flowing Nibbi cone filter, a #115 is just too small. Starting at a #120 or #122 gives you the safest, best jumping-off point to cure that high-end starvation.

That sounds like a massive, highly satisfying Saturday project! Getting that proper, longer Nibbi throttle cable installed is going to make a world of difference.

Three Quick Checkpoints for Tomorrow’s Install:

• The "Clack" Test with the New Cable: Once you hook up the new throttle assembly, snap the throttle open and release it a few times with the handlebars turned all the way to the left and all the way to the right. Make sure you still hear that distinct metal-on-metal "clack" of the slide hitting the bottom of the carb in both positions so your idle doesn't jump when you turn the bars.
• Route Away from the Exhaust: When routing the new longer cable, make sure it curves smoothly under the tank and stays clear of the exhaust header. Use zip ties loosely so the cable can shift slightly when the suspension moves.
• Fully Charge the New Battery: New powersports batteries usually sit on a shelf for a while. If you have a trickle charger, pop the new battery on it for an hour or two before dropping it into the bike to ensure it has a full, deep charge for its first start.

Good luck with the wrenching session tomorrow! Knocking out the battery, throttle, and jetting all at once is going to make that TBR7 feel like a completely different machine.

Once you get it all bolted together and take it for that first spin, let me know how it pulls through the gears or if you notice any new changes in the throttle response!

Custom Air Filter

The first thing to understand is how does the air filter work. It is simple, it filters particles out of the air that cause excessive ware on your engine; before the air is mixed with fuel to power your motor. 

The breathability of the stock air system is poor. It is why most of the time it wont idle right out of the box. I put on a new carb and jetted it. But still it would stall at an idle around 1600 rpms and that's where the idle should be set.

This air filter is a Chinese clone of the Unifilter pod style filter. It works wonderfully! Best $8.00 bucks I ever spent. 

My carburetor was already running rich so I got lucky and did not have to change out the pilot jet. The pilot jet controls fuel flow while at an idle. The main jet was running to rich but installing the filter balanced out the air fuel mixture at full throttle. Now my TBR7 runs like a raped ape at full throttle. Ahh Buddy The power and the glory !!!!!

1. So the upgrade is fairly easy. First take off the right side cover of the bike. 
2. Then unscrew the clamp holding the air filter tube to the carburetor. 
3. Once disconnected from the carburetor gently peel the air filter tube off of the air box. 
4. Then get a cover to one of those blue totes and cut a piece the same size and shape as the hole in the air box. 
5. Use Shoe Goop to glue it on. Once dry it is there forever. 
6. Oil up the new filter, there are many Youtube.com videos that show you how to do this. I used a light coating of motor oil for this job. Do both the sleeve and the main filter.
7. 
8. Attach new Air Filter. Make sure clamp is lined up with clamp groove on carburetor and is screwed down firmly.
9. Start your bike and see if you need to make any carburetor adjustments.

I get more power at full throttle and way better gas mileage using this Air Filter. 

Keep the rubber on the road!